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adventure paddle—fast. Timing is critical: Start paddling too soon, and we'll tire out before building the speed needed to rise ahead of the break. Begin too late, and the wave will roll right underneath the board without lifting it onto the crest. However, if we time it right, we'll press up from the board and, if all goes well, stand balanced as we fly toward the beach.

I'm up for the challenge, but with the first few waves, I find myself paddling too early; then, becoming increasingly frustrated, I work more and more furiously to get out there at the right moment. Each time I do get up, the board simply sinks, leaving me defeated as I watch the wave roll on without me. "You're standing up too soon," Preciado says. "Patience, Elizabeth. Patience."

Although I'm combining two of my loves—yoga and the ocean—in the most picturesque of settings, I'm not enjoying the experience. Instead, I'm annoyed that I haven't mastered surfing yet. Back on the beach, I look out onto the ocean's expanse and meditate on its ability to change effortlessly—from completely calm to ferociously turbulent. It's so vast and powerful, so much bigger than any effort I could ever make. So why not surrender to that power and let myself go along for the ride?

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